Fenix, London W1: ‘Big, bright, brash, dumbed down, shameless and open to all’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

Can taramasalata, hummus or moussaka ever be fancy? Short answer: yes

Fenix, a new Greek restaurant on Piccadilly in Mayfair, is very much part of what I’m calling the “maximalist” group of modern openings. See also Lilibet’s and Simpson’s-in-the-Strand. Financial downturn? Never heard of her.

While restaurateurs are all over the media turning out their empty pockets and pleading poverty, this new offshoot of a Manchester institution casually throws down another Sims-style pleasure palace. The photographs of the sumptuously ornate, Athenian-influenced interior can’t be real, surely? Well, it turns out they are. As you leave six lanes of moving traffic behind you and enter Fenix, eureka! You’re suddenly in a cross between an Aegean god’s haven and the White Company’s bedding department.